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Chinese New Year Noise

2008-02-12T08:05:00.000+08:00

The Shanghai city government suspended 36 road-works projects for a week over Chinese New Year in order to "create a quiet and peaceful environment for locals during the holiday". As firecrackers explode and fireworks roar throughout the nights of the holiday, it doesn't seem as though the "locals" are interested in creating a quiet and peaceful environment for themselves!

Staggering numbers

2008-02-02T12:57:00.000+08:00

The mind reels with the massive numbers that characterize any statistic published in China. With one of the worst winter weather seasons on record, the Shanghai Daily has printed numbers to boggle the mind. Here's a sampling:

Between January 25 and Thursday, a total of 5.8 million passengers were stranded throughout the railway system.
Killer storms have battered 19 provinces over the last three weeks, forced 1.76 million people to relocate and knocked down 223,000 houses.
Around 1.07 million militia and army reservists were participating in the fight against the extreme weather. The PLA [People's Liberation Army] currently has 2.3 million troops.
The worst snowstorms in five decades have killed 60 people and caused a direct economic loss of 53.8 billion yuan (US$7.48 billion) as of 6pm yesterday [31 January 2008].
By 6pm yesterday [31 January 2008], a total of 2,859 trains were delayed and 397 trains were canceled, trapping more than 5.8 million travelers.
A record 178.6 million people are expected to ride the rails in coming weeks.

If you can't quite comprehend these numbers, let's put them another way. Over the Chinese New Year holiday, the equivalent of the entire population of Brazil, or more than half the population of the US will take the trains.

As of July 2003, the total size of the US armed services was 1.4 million. The PLA is nearly twice that size.

So when we read that 306,000 troops were sent out to deal with the snow situation in the south of China, we can only be thankful that China has the labor resources and strong leadership to deal with these staggering numbers.

Half the Sky

2008-02-02T12:42:00.000+08:00

Mao proclaimed that "women hold up half the sky", setting the stage for women to serve in all critical functions in Communist China. Nearly half of a century later, we can find evidence that women continue to hold up half the sky or more in the homes, yet are not breaking through the smog to their half of the sky in much of business and politics.

As the first plenary session of the 13th Shanghai People's Congress closed two days ago, the newly elected Shanghai city government stood for photos flanking the reelected mayor, Han Zheng. His vice-mayors include 7 men and 1 woman, Zhao Wen.

Zhao Wen has impressive qualifications. Quoting the 1 February 2008 Shanghai Daily,

She has worked in the financial education and research area at higher education institutes for years. She has worked as assistant president and dean of the Accounting Department at Tongji University. Zhao has also worked as vice governor at the city's suburban Nanhui District. She has been vice secretary-general at Shanghai People's Congress Standing Committee and vice director of the SPC's Economics and Finance Department, overseeing budget affairs.

With these credentials, we might suspect then that she's been given a substantial role in the city government. Instead, we find that her charter is sports, tourism (though not the World Expo 2010), intellectual property rights protection, family planning, literature and history.

I'm sure she wouldn't use the words "tokenism", yet it sure looks to me like a lot less than half the sky is being held up here.

Tibet: Lhasa Experiences

2007-11-20T16:34:00.000+08:00

Finally, we wrap up the trip with bits and pieces of our wonderful stay in Lhasa. First, the hotel - we had deluxe rooms at the Yak Hotel. Wonderfully situated, right outside of the Barkhor area, it was convenient to shopping, sightseeing and food. Tibetan Expeditions has their office in the complex, adjacent to the Dunya Restaurant. While food was not included in our itinerary, we were pleased to receive breakfasts at the Dunya, one dinner show (see below) and one dinner at the restaurant. The food was so good, the coffee excellent, the patio/bar area perfect for that happy hour drink, that we ate nowhere else (apart from the dinner show).

Hours could be spent shopping in the Barkhor area. Seeing everything from cut-rate Chinese plastic to overpriced Tibetan antiques. We opted for shopping at the Dropenling Handicraft Development Center, where all profits are returned to the artisan communities. A few Tibetan rugs and associated masks later, we headed off to the Thangka stores. Our favorite was Mani Thangka Arts, across from the Pentoc Hotel.

As you wander the shopping streets, take note of the piles of yak cheese, and bedecked, swirling prayer wheels. When you are ready for a break, the coffee shop inside the Pentoc Hotel bills itself as having the best coffee in town. They could be right about that - just avoid the crowds of chain-smoking tourists.

Off we head to the dinner show at the Shangri-la restaurant. After the range of food we'd had on his trip, the food and yak butter tea were no longer too exciting. But it is always fun to see a bit of the music and dance culture of a region. Blessings were brought onto Sherry and Judy by the (scruffy) dancing yak...neither seems thrilled.

After enjoying the chili powders Cynthia bought in Dali on the Yunnan trip, I was determined to acquire chili from Tibet. Here we are in the market, negotiating on enough chili to last two families a year or more!
Finally, a few spots of local color. The touch of China displayed by the police officer clipping toenails while on duty in Barkhor Square. The juxtaposition of old and new with monks in front of the Budweiser tent which houses the police guards at Barkhor Square.

Sunday to Sunday, we had a great trip to Tibet. Well organized and orchestrated by our hosts at Tibetan Expeditions and Shigatse Travel. Made colorful and vibrant by our warm-hearted guide, Gaden, and our cheerful driver. And filled with the sounds, smells and sights of Tibet.

Link back to the beginning of the October 2007 Tibet trip at: Planning for Tibet, Arriving in Tibet and Off to Tsetang, Tibet Day 2: Tsetang Tibet Day 2: Journey to Samye, Tibet Day 3: Road to Gyantse - Yamdrok-Tso Lake and Tibet Day 3: Continuing on the Road to Gyantse, Day 4: Gyantse - Pelkor Choede and Kumbum Chorten, Tibet Day 4: Shigatse and Tashilhunpo, Tibet Day 5: Enroute to Final Stop - Lhasa and Tibet: Lhasa - Jokhang, Barkhor, Potala and Sera

Tibet: Lhasa - Jokhang, Barkhor, Potala and Sera

2007-11-20T14:32:00.000+08:00

Lhasa is the holy city of Tibet. Prior to the Chinese coming into Tibet, it was the home of the Dalai Lamas. Central to the spiritual faith of the Tibetan Buddhist is the Jokhang Temple. Construction started in 647 AD. It commemorates the marriage of the Tang princess Wencheng to King Songtsen Gampo.

Two days a week, admission is free. It is on this day that the palace is flooded with pilgrims from across Tibet. Queued for hours, they push and jostle through the incense fills chambers of the Palace. While not for the claustrophobic soul, this is the time to truly experience the worship and faith of the Tibetan people. Outside the palace, pilgrims prostrate themselves on mats. Perhaps more enlightening is to see the faith on display from the pilgrims who prostrate themselves every step of the kora - the pilgrimage circuit of the Barkhor, a clockwise circuit around the Temple. With leather aprons, wooden blocks on their hands, and possibly pads on their knees, the prostrating pilgrims pray, clap their hands, and fall forward, sliding yards around the circuit.

Despite the free admission, there is plenty of money flying around. Whether in a small temple like those we visited in Tsetang, or in these large palaces, worshipers and pilgrims exchange larger notes for stacks of 1 jiao notes (0.1 yuan approximately worth US$0.013). The jiao notes are made in offering to the various buddha, lamas, gods, and guardians. At the largest temples, you'll come upon monks counting and sorting piles and piles of notes. It looks like a lot of money, yet when you look at maintaining 14th century buildings with all of the statues, paying for all of the utilities, and clothing and feeding the monks and support staff, it remains a hard life.

Lining the circuit are shops, stalls, and teahouses. The pilgrims include monks from various sects, Khambas who braid their hair with red yarn, and Golok women with incredible ornate braids.

Potala Palace was once the seat of the government of Tibet, and continues (despite the presence of cameras and microphones) to represent the hope of self-government. It was the winter residence of the Dalai Lamas.

The palace was built in the 7th century and extended in the 17th century to its present size. At 13 stories high (with no elevators), the stairs of the palace represent a test of acclimatization to the altitude. We were happy enough to face it at the end, rather than the beginning of our trip.

Like many things in Tibet, access to the palace is heavily controlled. Having a guide arrange for passes is the best option. Gaden was hopeful that the palace would not be too busy on the day of our arrival and we could get in early (and have more time to visit). But then waiting is the name of the game in Tibet. During high season, visits are limited to one hour, so getting in early is good if possible.

Tim can't resist the "modeling" that goes on with the attractive asian young women. Somehow the rest of us couldn't reach the same standard of pose, despite our best attempts.

Sera monastery is a must-do in the afternoons. The monastery was founded in 1419. Once housing over 5000 monks, the monastery is now home to 600. Visit in the afternoon and witness the unique style of training and education. Questions are put to the learner with an open hand. Answers pondered and given. Discussion ensues. Wrong answers get another kind of clap. Correct answers a different hand signal. The courtyard filled with listeners, questioners and watchers reverberates with clapping, learning and discussion. In listening closely to one pair, Gaden's comment was "it is hard!" With no texts on hands, what a great way to learn for both student and teacher.

Filled to the brim with monasteries, temples and palaces, we skipped Drepung, leaving that for our next Tibetan Expedition.

Link back to the beginning of the October 2007 Tibet trip at: Planning for Tibet, Arriving in Tibet and Off to Tsetang, Tibet Day 2: Tsetang Tibet Day 2: Journey to Samye, Tibet Day 3: Road to Gyantse - Yamdrok-Tso Lake and Tibet Day 3: Continuing on the Road to Gyantse, Day 4: Gyantse - Pelkor Choede and Kumbum Chorten, Tibet Day 4: Shigatse and Tashilhunpo, and Tibet Day 5: Enroute to Final Stop - Lhasa

Link forward to Tibet: Lhasa Experiences

Day 5: Enroute to our Final Stop - Lhasa

2007-11-20T13:35:00.001+08:00

Traveling back through the countryside to our last and final stop Lhasa ...

We finally caught this picture showing the normal fuel storage. Cow/yak pies are stuck to the walls of the home or surrounding fences to dry and to be available for use for cooking and heating.

Travel times are controlled throughout Tibet, not by patrol cars, radar guns or speed cameras. Rather they are controlled by a permitting system. As you leave one area, the guide races out of the car to pick up a pass from the guards. Back in the car, there is much inspection of the pass, discussion with the driver, calculations, glances at the clock and ultimately a plan. The concept that this prevents speeding is through awry by the line-up of cars parked by the roadside a few kilometers from the next checkpoint. Here we wait - perhaps our longest wait of 20 minutes - for the exact time to leave. Be early and the driver receives a ticket for 100 RMB, a substantial hit to the daily wage for these guides and drivers.

With few major roads in Tibet, combined with travel times, you do spend a bit of time in the van. And occasionally visiting the same roadside restaurant. Here we are back in our same booth at the restaurant en route from Samye to Gyantse, complete with flies and a less-than-pleasant bathroom.

Nietang Buddha, 25 miles southwest of Lhasa city, is the biggest stone statue engraved on a cliff in Tibet. Notice Douglas standing just in front of Buddha's hand. Located at the north foot of Nietang Mountain. The Buddha statue is one of Sakyamuni sitting under a bodhi tree to capture evils. The statue is about 26 feet width and 32 feet. Always trying to gain merit, Douglas tries to toss a traditional white silk scarf onto the Buddha engraving.

And, finally our last stop, Lhasa where we are met by the golden yak statues and our first view of the Potala Palace.

Link back to the beginning of the October 2007 Tibet trip at: Planning for Tibet, Arriving in Tibet and Off to Tsetang, Tibet Day 2: Tsetang Tibet Day 2: Journey to Samye, Tibet Day 3: Road to Gyantse - Yamdrok-Tso Lake and Tibet Day 3: Continuing on the Road to Gyantse, Day 4: Gyantse - Pelkor Choede and Kumbum Chorten and Tibet Day 4: Shigatse and Tashilhunpo

Link forward to Tibet Day 6: Lhasa - Jokhang, Barkhor, Potala and Sera

Tibet Day 4: Shigatse and Tashilhunpo

2007-11-20T12:10:00.000+08:00

Onward on the road to Shigatse, Tibet's second largest city and the traditional capital of the Tsang. The key place to visit in Shigatse is Tashilhunpo Monastery, the seat of the Panchen Lama. Here you can see the 85 ft high statue of Maitreya, the Future Buddha, covered in more than 600 lbs of gold.

Recalling that lamas are cremated and placed in tombs, this is the place to see numerous elaborate tombs of the various Panchen Lamas. Panchen Lamas are any of the line of reincarnated lamas in Tibet, each of whom heads the influential Tashilhunpo and until recent times was second only to the Dalai-Lama in spiritual authority within the dominant Dge-lugs-pa sect of Tibetan Buddhism.

The walls of Tashilhunpo are unique - they are probably a meter thick and constructed of bundles of densely packed roots - something perhaps like juniper. Water and rot-resistant, this monastery built in 1447 should continue to house the "yellow hat" sect for many centuries to follow.

Overnight at the Manasarovar Hotel.

Link back to the beginning of the October 2007 Tibet trip at: Planning for Tibet, Arriving in Tibet and Off to Tsetang, Tibet Day 2: Tsetang Tibet Day 2: Journey to Samye, Tibet Day 3: Road to Gyantse - Yamdrok-Tso Lake and Tibet Day 3: Continuing on the Road to Gyantse, and Day 4: Gyantse - Pelkor Choede and Kumbum Chorten

Link forward to Tibet Day 5: Enroute to our Final Stop - Lhasa

Tibet Day 4: Gyantse - Pelkor Chode and Kumbum Chorten

2007-11-20T11:17:00.000+08:00

Off after breakfast for the sights of Gyantse. The Dzong of Gyantse towers above the town. The dzong (a fort) contains an anti-British Imperialists museum. In 1904 Sir Francis Young-Husband led a British expeditionary force from India into Tibet & they set up camp in Gyantse Dzong, staying for several months before moving into Lhasa.

The British invasion was rife with cultural misunderstandings. The British didn't understand the burial rites of the Tibetans, so in the proper British fashion buried the Tibetan dead. The Tibetans horrified by this practice came later to dig up the bodies for sky burials. And then, the British took the injured Tibetans into their hospitals for treatment. How could they kill one day, and heal the next? Most confusing!

The Gyantse pachu monastery/Pelkor Chode was built in 1418 by a local chieftan and monk kadup gelake pasang (the first panchen lama). The monastery held stacks and stacks of books with Buddhist writing - both in Sanskrit and Tibetan.

The most notable building at the monastery is the Kumbum Chorten, a stupa built in 1427. With 9 tiers and 108 chapels, it is a key cultural relic. Each chapel contains numerous murals, painting and statues.

Gyantse is deemed by the tour books to be the Tibetan city with the least Chinese influence. Possibly true, though given time, that is sure to change. No doubt, wandering through the old parts of town would be interesting given the time.

More harvesting in this part of the country - this time hay - with fields filled with people and hay wagons filled to overflowing.

En route to Shigatse, we stopped at a local barley flour mill. Barley is roasted and then ground. The flour mixed with yak butter, known as tsampa, is a primary food source for Tibetans. One of those local dishes like porridge, poi, and grits that sticks to the ribs, and is an acquired taste to those not born to it.

Link back to the beginning of the October 2007 Tibet trip at: Planning for Tibet, Arriving in Tibet and Off to Tsetang, Tibet Day 2: Tsetang Tibet Day 2: Journey to Samye, Tibet Day 3: Road to Gyantse - Yamdrok-Tso Lake and Tibet Day 3: Continuing on the Road to Gyantse.

Link forward to Tibet Day 4: Shigatse and Tashilhunpo

Tibet Day 3: Continuing on the Road to Gyantse

2007-11-20T10:08:00.000+08:00

The drive from Samye to Gyantse is long day, but well worth it. Of course, if you're bored, you can travel like Douglas ...

After leaving Yamdrok-Tso Lake and stopping for lunch, we headed through farming country. At the beginning of October, the fields are full of people harvesting. Stopping to find out what was in the fields - "cow food", we found that sweet turnips were being harvested.

Farther along, we found a "real Tibetan factory" - the place where Potala incense was being made. Run-off streams were turned into small outdoor milling operations. Something like sandalwood was being pounded and pulverized, and ultimately turned into incense sticks.

Amazing to find mountains giving way to sand dunes, as the river ran fast and narrow and then smoothed out into wide river valleys. The sand-boarding market opportunity remains untapped in the region!

Along the way, we passed sky burial sites. Extracted from travelchinaguide.com,

Stupa burial and cremation are reserved for high lamas who are being honored in death. Sky burial is the usual means for disposing of the corpses of commoners. The origin of sky burial remains largely hidden in Tibetan mystery.
Sky burial is a ritual that has great religious meaning. Tibetans are encouraged to witness this ritual, to confront death openly and to feel the impermanence of life. Tibetans believe that the corpse is nothing more than an empty vessel. The spirit, or the soul, of the deceased has exited the body to be reincarnated into another circle of life. It is believed that the Drigung Kagyu order of Tibetan Buddhism established the tradition in this land of snow, although there are other versions of its origin.
The corpse is offered to the vultures. It is believed that the vultures are Dakinis. Dakinis are the Tibetan equivalent of angels. In Tibetan, Dakini means "sky dancer". Dakinis will take the soul into the heavens, which is understood to be a windy place where souls await reincarnation into their next lives. This donation of human flesh to the vultures is considered virtuous because it saves the lives of small animals that the vultures might otherwise capture for food.

Turning off the main road, we headed across the countryside to visit a farming village. While much has been done to improve conditions for people in towns, and farmers along the roadside, a large percentage of Tibetans live in harsh conditions with little, if any, government support to improve their lives.

A woman welcomed us to her home. You see the entrance, in which small animals could be housed, the kitchen blackened by years of smoke and oil. The walls and floor pounded earth. A magnificent Tibetan chest held most of the family's belongings.

With the furniture resting up against the packed earthen wall and sitting on the packed earth floor, the reasons for the state of Tibetan furniture brought into Shanghai becomes much clearer. It's a wonder there is much left to work with.

Reaching Gyantse, we stayed overnight at the Jianzang Hotel in rooms with private baths. Certainly adequate, though not exciting. Down the street with Gaden to another Tashi Restaurant - not as good as the one in Tsetang, or the Snowlands Restaurant in Samye. Breakfast at the little restaurant next door to the hotel ... love that Nescafe for breakfast!

See earlier postings at Planning for Tibet, Arriving in Tibet and Off to Tsetang, Tibet Day 2: Tsetang, Tibet Day 2: Journey to Samye and Tibet Day 3: Road to Gyantse - Yamdrok-Tso Lake

Link forward to Tibet Day 4: Gyantse Pelkor Choede and Kumbum Chorten

Tibet Day 3: Road to Gyantse - Yamdrok-Tso Lake

2007-11-20T09:35:00.000+08:00

The road to Gyantse takes you to Yamdrok-Tso Lake. After winding up the mountain for an hour, you reach the overlook to the stunningly blue lake at the summit of the Kamba-la pass (4794m). The lake is below the road at 4488m. In one direction, the lake is deeply turquoise, in another a vivid deep blue.

Vendors abound with offers of yak rides (that would be posing on the yak), pictures with the local breed of dog (sadly adorned with a fuzzy cuff around their necks), and plastic beads from China tricked out to look Tibetan.

Unfortunately, the old road from Lhasa to Gyantse is under construction, so it's back down the hill the same way we came up. While the trip up was winding and slow, we seemed to fly down the hill towards our lunch at a roadside restaurant -- food OK, service barely keeping up with the clientele, the bathrooms - well, just don't look or breathe.

The hillsides on the way back down the mountain are grazing lands for yak and sheep herds. We loved seeing the herds spinning wool on hand spindles as they walked and talked.

And in case you wonder how you travel as a party of 6 on a Tibetan Expeditions private tour ... here's our van. Good vehicle, great driver, decent seats and suspension, always interesting music.

Link back to the beginning of the October 2007 Tibet trip at: Planning for Tibet, Arriving in Tibet and Off to Tsetang, Tibet Day 2: Tsetang and Tibet Day 2: Journey to Samye

Link to Tibet Day 3: Continuing on the Road to Gyantse

Tibet Day 2: Journey to Samye Monastery

2007-11-20T08:03:00.000+08:00

See the beginning of the trip at: Planning for Tibet, Arriving in Tibet and Off to Tsetang, and Tibet Day 2: Tsetang

Leaving Tsetang behind, we head back to the Yellow River (aka Yarlung Tsangpo, aka Brahmaputra) for our "ferry" ride to Samye. The ferry leaves from the southern shore when full, though clearly Gaden had a favorite driver in mind. So off through the shoreline mud we head to the last boat nearly ready to depart ... apart from the additional six foreigners!

Whether the boat was beyond capacity or not, we'll never know. Suffice it to say that there weren't 6 more life jackets to be had. Not a great loss, since the life jackets were well beyond the state of having any use - torn, ties ripped off and foam compressed beyond flotation.

The Yarlung River is wide, shallow, sand bar ridden and flowing with a swift current. The journey was longer than it looked, as we wound west through the sand bars and then back to the east. We could imagine the problems if the boat were to overturn. Useless life jackets, Tibetans who probably don't know how to swim, layers of heavy wool clothes, frigid waters and a swift current. I took comfort in the prayers swirling around me, as prayer wheels spun.

In the meantime, the six of us gave plenty of entertainment to other passengers. From the silver hair of Judy and I, the hair on Douglas's legs, to the pictures Tim was taking, the ride was more interesting than normal for all involved.

Perhaps that's why Gaden wanted our boat and driver, and not this one who had his own style to boat driving!

Somewhere along the journey, it would appear to be wise to pull a small cup from your robe, dip water out of the Yarlung River, drink it, and dowse your head. Or perhaps, that’s only wise if you’re a Tibetan Buddhist.

Loaded onto a bus with the other locals and visitors, we head to the Samye Monastery and town. The monastery was built between 750 and 779 AD by King Trisong Detsen, a great Indian master Shanirakshita, and the Tantric adept Padmasambhava. This trio is remembered in Tibetan history as the "Abbott, Master and Dharma King". This is the first monastery of Tibet and considered to be the source of the "river of Tibetan Buddhism". It is place where Buddhist scriptures were first translated from Sanskrit into Tibetan.

The monastery is ringed by four large stupas - one each is white, red, black and green. A wall surrounds the entire complex, topped by 1028 stupas.

A Chinese town is being slowly built outside the walls of the monastery complex. It is here that you can find excellent food (dinner and breakfast) at the English Snowlands Restaurant ("WE HAVE ANENGLISH MENV") . With the sun so strong in Tibet, fuel (frequently cow/yak pies) isn't wasted on boiling water - solar powered tea kettles were seen everywhere.

Accommodations are at the Monastery Guesthouse. Rooms were equipped with decent twin beds and blankets, easy chairs with shredded covers, a washstand with two basins for washing, and a chamber pot. Showers are available in the ground floor bath - Tim recommended not even looking. Toilets were at the most basic level, though moderately clean as these things go. I expect that the foreigners are routinely put on the top floor for a reason. Views were stunning as the sun set, and early in the morning at the brisk sunrise.

Back in the bus and off to the river for the journey back across the Yarlung River. Eschewing the loaded ferry, we headed to the empty boat with the driver "my friend". Here's Gaden enjoying the trip back across the river.

Link to Tibet Day 3: Road to Gyantse

Tibet Day 2: Tsetang

2007-10-20T15:35:00.000+08:00

With the kitchen barely awake, we ordered our first "Tibetan" breakfast at the Tashi Restaurant in Tsetang. With yogurt sour enough to curl your toes, 3/4" thick pancakes, a wondrous blend of Nescafe, and eggs, we were ready to tackle our first sight.

Gaden had recommended that while Yumbulagang (also known as Yumbu Lhakang = castle on the top of a female deer-like hill) wasn't on our itinerary, it was a real must. There was some mumbling about needing to be permits, a friend needing to be the office, one permit received, and well, perhaps we needed to make this the first stop. Maybe not an auspicious opening to the capricious nature of the controls on travel in Tibet, but he was right - Yumbulagang was a phenomenal stop.

Perched atop a hill with views across the river valley, this legendary first building was spectacular. According to tibettravel.info, Yumbulagang , “palace of mother and son” in Tibetan dialect, is the first palace and one of the earliest buildings in Tibet, having a history of more than 2,000 years. It’s said that it was built for Nyatri Tsanpo, the first Tibetan King by Bon believers in the 2nd century BC. Then it became the summer palace of Songtsan Gampo and Princess Wencheng. The 5thDalai Lama changed it as the monastery of Old-Yellow Hat Sect (Kadamspa).

Getting to the palace presented the first challenge for our oxygen starved lungs, and the first experience of the large thigh muscles screaming for oxygen on stair climbs. The vendors were just setting up for the day, but Ian was still able to pick up his prayer flags to leave a bit of his soul on the peak behind the palace.

Before entering the palace, offerings of heather and juniper incense were burnt; presumably joining the raveling flags in sending prayers to the gods. Here's Karl sending out his thoughts to the world.

Looking down from the palace, the fields were under heavy cultivation. The forests long gone, with the Chinese putting money into limited reforestation in some areas to stabilize the land.

By the time we made it back down the hill (much simpler than going up), we were ready to tackle the monasteries of the Tibet. Next stop: Trandruk Monastery (aka Traduk Temple). Trandruk is one of Tibet's oldest monasteries built in the 7th century during the reign of Songstan Gampo. It’s said that renowned figures in the history of Tibetan Buddhism, such as Padmasambhava and Milariba, had practised Buddhism nearby after it was built and the remaining relics are sacred land for the devotees. Trandruk later converted to the Gelugpa sect of Buddhism and experienced large-scale reconstruction.

Tran means roc and druk means dragon in Tibetan. The monastery got is name from the legend that it could only be built after Songtsan Gampo had turned into a roc and conquered an evil dragon.

Monasteries live off the offerings left of the Buddhas, gods, lamas and guardians. This monastery was most intriguing with the temple festival masks garnished with offerings poking out of every opening.

Lunch back at the Tashi Restaurant then onwards in our journey to Samye.

See the beginning of the trip at: Planning for Tibet, and Arriving in Tibet and Off to Tsetang

Link forward to Tibet Day 2: Journey to Samye

Arriving in Tibet and off to Tsetang

2007-10-20T14:51:00.000+08:00

The only "direct" flight from Shanghai to Lhasa changes planes in Xian. At transit in Xian, our boarding passes were collected. Tim had the foresight to grab the baggage claim tickets from boarding passes before they were replaced with new ones - 5 seats together and 1 in another row!

Chaos then ensues when it is time to board the onward bound flight as it becomes necessary to try to find the old boarding passes to be returned. This, of course, so that errant baggage tags could be retrieved. The endless inefficiencies of China systems!

We did however manage to claim a full row, trading off the one seat we needed.

And so, another few hours later, we arrive at Gongkar airport - SE of Lhasa to be met by our erstwhile guide, Gaden, and driver for the trip. Bedecked with our white silk scarves, we head off to our first destination Tsetang, elevation 3,550m. Described by Lonely Planet as an "uninteresting modern town", we couldn't disagree. Nonetheless, moving ever so slowly up the stairs to our rooms at the Snow Pigeon, the rooms were relatively typical of a Chinese business class hotel - a bit noisy and smoky but perfectly adequate.

Gaden agreed to meet us at 7 and take us to dinner at the first of seemingly endless Tashi Restaurants. Walking (slowly) there and puffing by the time we reached the second floor restaurant, we had our first tibetan/nepalese dinner, complete with the obligatory taste of yak butter tea. Service was slow (the place was packed; presumably with every western tour group in town), but the food was good. Even to the confusing dish that was deemed to be chili chicken, but was the chili potatoes ordered by another group.

With a menu boasting of yogurt, pancakes and American breakfasts, and a hotel looking like it would serve something a bit too much like a classic Chinese hotel breakfast buffet, we asked put down money for breakfast so that the Tashi restaurant would open for us.

No smile given to a Tibetan goes unreturned. On our way to Tsetang, we stopped in a small town to pick up water. Judy and I attracted quite a bit of study from an old woman who wandered by. As we studied her, she studied us. When I gave her a big smile, a huge one-tooth smile and a thumbs-up came in return. Then again, if you are Gaden, no smile to an attractive young woman will go unreturned!

And off to our first night of sleeping at altitude. Aside from the hard beds, noise and smoky rooms, I was an immediate believer in the efficacy of the Diamox. Slept reasonably well, felt like I could breathe and didn't have a massive headache.

Just a side note, for those people who would like the assurance of having an personal oxygen canister with them, they are readily available at the airport and in Lhasa (and presumably other major tour destinations). There were NONE obviously for sale in Tsetang. So if you take this route and want some insurance, pick it up before leaving Gongkar. See Planning for Tibet for more thoughts on arranging travel and dealing with altitude.

Link to Day 2: Tsetang

Planning for Tibet

2007-10-20T11:36:00.000+08:00

In the run-up to our trip to Tibet, the biggest concern was about health and handling the altitude. I had heard all of the "bad trip" stories, from the people who end up canceling after a day or so, and flying home, those who spent a large part of their trip inhaling from oxygen containers, and one woman who spent most of the first night, and subsequent days battling the nausea induced by the altitude.

The new answer is to take the train from Beijing to Lhasa. It's a marvel of technology, crossing passes over 5000m in altitude, with pressurized cabins. And it is the first question everyone asks, "Did you take the train?" The travel time of 50 plus hours along with the pressurization allow a more gradual acclimatization then flying nearly directly from sea level in Shanghai to 3400 meters outside of Lhasa.

My answer is that while I'm sure that changing scenery on the train is incredible, I don't like being "stuck" on any form of transportation for over 2 days. Combine that with the rapid deterioration of public restrooms in many parts of the world, and particularly in China, the limited, and not gourmet, offerings of food on the train, and a basic time constraint, we flew.

The human body is not well adapted to transitioning rapidly from the oxygen and air pressure of sea level to > 3000 meters altitude. And so, after listening to all of the stories, I headed off to Worldlink to acquire Diamox. The doctor had traveled to Tibet and was knowledgeable about the drug. The bottom line is that the standard dose is one tablet 250 mg twice per day beginning on the day of departure. As it takes some time to work, it should be taken in advance. Or as the doctor suggested, you can wait and see how you feel. Perhaps taking one per day, or even, if needed, taking 4 to get the drug working. With the one week trip, she strongly advised continuing until two days after return - by no means stop at departure, or stopping while at altitude.

Buying the china-made drug here, I didn't get any of the warning information, which included a concern if you feel a "humming" in your body. Now according to the travel information people my brother-in-law talked with, that is a normal side effect, and certainly one all of us taking the Diamox experienced. Within the first hour of taking the first dose, you have a strange sensation of a physical buzz or hum throughout your whole body. While the level of the buzzing subsided some over the week of taking the Diamox, it was always a bit in the background. It was particularly noticeable when smaller muscles were put to work, most commonly when we were eating, when the whole area around the mouth would tingle. Or the morning we wanted a ways to breakfast, and found our lower legs and feet buzzing through the meal. Rather an interesting feeling. Now, I'm not giving medical advice or suggesting this isn't a side effect that should be concerning for some people; so do check that out for yourselves. As for me, Diamox allowed me to fly right to altitude, feel reasonably comfortable breathing (as long as I moved at a leisurely pace), and avoid headaches (except when I drank the Lhasa Beer).

And so, with drugs in hand and arrangements deftly made through Tibetan Expeditions, six of us flew out of Shanghai on Sunday, Sept 30. Keep in mind that planes are pressurized to about 9000', on our descent into Lhasa we "climbed" an additional 2500'.

Link to Arriving in Tibet and Off to Tsetang

Lone Pine Camp

2007-08-26T15:28:00.000+08:00

Here are a few other family pics from Lone Pine Camp this summer.

Experiencing nearly every form of weather, hail comes down.

With lots of laughter, we have an early birthday celebration.

And what would be a visit to Lone Pine Camp with bagpipes?

Through the years

2007-08-26T14:44:00.000+08:00

Having photos stored in digital form makes it easier to pull together retrospectives. Here are the cousins through the years. Click on the picture to see it larger.

Family noses

2007-08-26T12:10:00.000+08:00

In an act of pure family silliness, we investigated the shapes and sizes of noses during a family gathering this summer. See if you can identify which nose belongs to which family member. Leave your guesses as comments, and there's a prize for the one who gets the most correct.

Missing in Action and Tibet Tour Companies

2007-06-09T17:25:00.000+08:00

To those of you who follow my Travel Blog, Thank you! You will have noticed a long gap between postings. I haven't disappeared or lost interest in this blog. It's merely that I headed back to the States for 8 weeks over the summer. I do have a few posts to do about the "home leave" experience, family pics, and so on and will get to those shortly.

In the meantime, a preview of future attractions. We'll be off to Suzhou for a short weekend stay. Been there on business a few times, but never to see the sights. It's a trip that long overdue and finally scheduled.

After that will be the October holidays in Tibet. Just a quick note on that. I started a process in May to identify a tour company to set up a private tour for 6 people. I sent off emails to 10 tour companies - 8 based in Lhasa (possibly with an office in Chengdu), 1 based in Beijing, and 1 based in Shanghai. Based on website information, I expected the foreign-owned China based operations to be substantially more expensive. What I hadn't expected was that they would be the ones to NOT respond to my email request for a proposal.

The statistics are within 1 day, I received replies from 6 of 8 Tibet-based tour companies. Within 4 days, I received replies from all 8 of the 8 Tibet-based tour companies. I never received replies from the Beijing and Shanghai based (high priced) tour companies. Did they somehow know that I closely evaluate the price-value ratio on tour proposals, and there's might not meet my standards? Or is it that the firms that cater to the (well-heeled) expats and partner with the big global tour companies only want you to follow their plan? Or perhaps, it's just that I got what I expected - low service and high cost.

Anyway, for the record, we are booked with Tibetan Expeditions and I have my hopes pinned on a great trip. The other companies that I approached and who gave me a wide variety of interesting itinerary options were:

Tibet Family Tours
Shangrila Tours
Great Tibet Tour
Tours of Tibet
Access Tibet Tour
Visit Tibet
Tibet Wind Horse Adventure

Nanjing Weekend

2007-05-11T15:10:00.000+08:00

Nanjing, China

A short May Day holiday gave the perfect opportunity for a road trip to Nanjing, a 3 1/2 hour drive from Shanghai.

We booked into the new Sofitel Galaxy Nanjing at internet rates, upgrading to a Deluxe City View and Premier Lake View. The rooms were great, especially for the price. I wouldn't bother with the "Lake View" unless looking through the haze a couple of kms off at about 2 o-clock is what you consider a lake view. I always hope for the quieter side of the hotel with this kind of thing, but neither a view nor quieter aspect was on call. The room was very nice, so regardless of the view, the price to value ratio was great!

As the weather was expected to deteriorate over the weekend, we headed after lunch to ZhongShan Mountain National Park, otherwise known as Purple Mountain, and Ming tombs. Thirty-two years from 1381 to 1413 and 100,000 laborers were used in constructing the tomb area, with Zhu Yuangzhang, aka Hong Wu, first emperor of the Ming dynasty being buried in 1398. Many of the buildings were damaged during various wars, but the carvings remain impressive.

Douglas finds the buildings and carvings relatively boring. However, most imperial building have great marble staircases that easily turn into slides. Being one of the few sets of Westerners in the grounds, Douglas provided much amusement to the Chinese families and tour groups.

The most interesting sight of the grounds is Shen Dao, Spirit Way, which is lined with massive Ming Dynasty stone statues of guardian animals. The pairs of animals represent the virtues of the emperor. At 13, Douglas still can't resist getting astride these statues. The only problem is that he's not that easy to pick up any more!

Zheng He is celebrated at the newest $50 million dollar museum of Nanjing. Quoting from Answer.com, in a period of 28 years, from 1405 to 1433, Cheng directed seven expeditions and visited no fewer than 37 countries, stretching from Champa in the east to the African coast in the west.

In preparation for these expeditions, some 1,180 ships of various types and measurements were constructed. The size of the fleet varied from voyage to voyage. The first expedition consisted of a 27,800-man crew and 62 large vessels and 255 smaller ones carrying cargoes of silk, embroideries, and other valuable products. Zheng took personal command of each voyage, but he often entrusted his lieutenants to undertake side trips away from the main itinerary. The countries visited ranged from the nearby states, such as Champa, Sumatra, and Java, to the faraway lands to the East, including Arabia and places on the east African coast, such as Mogadishu and Brawa.

The museum contains a replica of one of the troop carrying ships - relatively small compared to the command ship - but enormous compared with the ships of the European explorers who sailed over the next century and more. More than anything, the museum reinforces the thought that numbers are frequently staggering in China compared to western countries. The Ming shipyards were extensive, the labor force enormous, and the sailing fleet vast.

Nanjing, filled with museums and universities, is a pleasant city with wide tree-lined streets and many separate bike lanes. From Purple Mountain to the parks, city walls, and memorials, there's much more for our next road trip.

Dali - Yi Market and Village

2007-05-07T12:06:00.000+08:00

Dali, Yunnan, China

A second day trip offered by Jim through China Minority Travels is to the Muslim Market and Yi Village. The market is held on the 5th, 15th and 25th of the month, with the market being bigger on certain days. Try to plan your trip to do this tour on a market day!

Animals must head to market at the crack of dawn or earlier - horses, water buffalo, cows, pig, goats, sheep and in the food areas - chicken, rabbits, etc. While desultory negotiations can be found, things don't get intense until closer to closing time - 3:30 PM. The unanswered question - how many animals head home market after market with their owners.

As you will have seen from the prior postings, faces captivate us in the markets - these are from my husband's pictures last year. Don't you love the hats? And then there's the endless other commercial activites aimed at supporting life - tobacco, shave and a haircut, new clothes (sewn by the ladies in easter bonnets!) and shoe repair.

Beside the faces, I am forever amazed how much women carry on their backs, long distances. Here's the walking straw!
No story about China is complete without a contrast of the old and new. Here we have the traditional clothing, combined with the back basket - now available in bright plastics rather than the old style rattan on the picture's left, and the plastic toy for the child.

As with the prior day's tour, Jim arranged for lunch - this time in a Muslim restaurant; buried in a village, on a road that probably sees a car once a day. Not a place you would stumble upon, nor likely choose on your own. Amazing amounts of food poured out of the kitchen. Completely different flavors and food varieties, and all delicious. You just didn't want to look too closely. Cynthia, toasting with her tea cup, was none too impressed with the flies or the full volume DVD of the midday call to prayer and sermon. Guess I've been in China too long and took it all as part of the experience. It was yummy and not to be missed.

What could be missed, and was, was the local toilet. Sent down the alley to this, I have to say that I've done basic toilets in all of my travels, but an open field would be far preferable to this "composting" toilet. With roofers laying tiles next door, the combination was enough to send us back down the alley, to a slight bend in the wall. It had clearly served as a backup solution for others and with little road traffic, met the need of a spot of privacy.

Finally, a walk through the fields to a Yi village. The Yi are mountain people, scraping out of a living hours out of Dali. As road construction brings town closer, and satellite dishes bring in the world, how much and how soon will this life change?

On the return to Dali, we had Jim stop to help us understand the coal manufacture. These bricks are used in the home ovens to provide heat and fuel for cooking three times a time. Delivered by bike or wheelbarrow, each family generally uses 3 a day. Coal is brought to the manufacturers, ground, mixed with sand and water and pressed into these briquettes. No OSHA protection in this operation. The men grinding and mixing the coal will be blackened head to toe. According to this man, most die young of black lung.

With much thanks to Henriette for her efficient arrangements, and Jim for his "storytimes", we end our trip to Lijiang and Dali for this year.

Dali - Visiting the Bai Markets and Bai Village

2007-05-06T17:31:00.000+08:00

Dali, Yunnan, China

Our trips (both this year's and last) were planned and organize by Henriette and Jim of Jim's Tibetan Hotel, Jim's Peace Hotel and China Minority Travel. Jim (picture on the right) offers a one day tour to the Bai markets, across Erhai Lake and through Bai villages.

The markets offer untold opportunities for people watching. My personal favorites are the lovely faces of the older women and men.

I recalled my mother talking of this as the day they took every known form of transportation, or at least it seemed that way. Starting from the hotel in a car, we added the more interesting horse-cart, open truck and boat to the equation.

Too often, the food on tours caters to the common denominator, resulting in bland westernized flavors. Not so on Jim's tours where he hopes to provide a true taste of local foods. Pictured below was lunch on the boat. A great combination of vegetables (LOVE the chili-ed potatoes), beef and chicken. Fantastic food!

No washing machines for these ladies. If you are lucky, there's a water spigot. If you're not, you're pulling water in a bucket up from a well. In either case, you're washing the clothes in a small plastic basin. I'm still not sure which is better: washing clothes in the field near a water spigot, or washing clothes on a concrete slab but having to hauling up the water?

Near the lake is the dried noodle factory. It looks like laundry hanging on the lines to dry, but take a closer look and you can see the individual noodle strands.

One of the highlights of the visit to the Bai village is meeting the "barefoot doctor". Medical training ceased during the Cultural Revolution, and so medical care was provided then, and continues to be provided in small villages, by self-trained professionals. The doctor in this village ushered us into his concrete floored "ward" and described through gestures (and some words translated by Jim) how he assists in the birthing process. With such checkpoints as the amount of dilation, frequency of contraction, size of stomach, and orientation of the baby, he decides whether this appears to be a normal birth and when it will occur. If soon, the patient stays, an IV is started. Whether the IV contains more than saline (the cure for many ills in China) to increase the rate of contractions is unclear. If the birth looks to be a problem (too early, too big, not rotated), the mother is sent off for the 45 minute bus ride to the hospital in the new city of Dali. Otherwise, should all be fine, Mom and baby will be sent back home (and to the fields) within a few hours of birth.

The debate rages over whether Lijiang is the more interesting town or Dali Old City (certainly not the new concrete Dali!). My family found Lijiang more interesting with its cobblestoned canals, the interesting night scene and Jade Dragon Mountain in the backdrop. The sales people were more aggressive in Dali, and the town less interesting in appearance.

Cynthia and I hit Lijiang with the Chinese tour groups and very cold weather. Dali warmed up and we spent quite a bit of time in the late afternoons and evenings just relaxing in restaurant/bars over a drink (or two) watching the travelers wandering up and down "Foreigner Street".

In any event, both are worth visiting, offering differences in food, shopping and nightlife, and in common, cheap beer!

Lijiang - Naxi Music, Jade Dragon Snow Mountain and Feminine Power

2007-05-05T16:27:00.000+08:00

Lijiang, Yunnan Province, China - home to the Naxi minority group, land of snow-clad mountains, fur-clad horseman, and feminine power.

Last year, a broken leg kept my son and me from joining the family on the long-planned trip through Yunnan. This year, a visit from Cynthia gave me the opportunity to try again. And so, you'll find a combination of pictures from last March's trip and this April's trip. I hope you enjoy.

Lijiang was the capital of the Naxi people. The Naxi - actually comprised of a number of smaller groups - are traditionally matriarchal. Still today, most of the work is done by the women and most of the wealth is held by the women. This painting, from the wall of the Naxi school, symbolizes much of the feminine power of this region. The key figure is Shu, the Naxi Goddess of Nature with a frog head, human body and serpent tails.

In the 8th century, a pictographic script was created to capture the history, religion and customs. This culture is called the Dongba culture. This gentleman stands before the Dongba Museum/Nightly Show. With his ever present smile, capped by his pheasant plumed hat, we only wonder what he smokes in his 4 ft pipe.

The town principles are outlined in Mandarin, English and Naxi script at the entrance to the old town. A great comparison of the forms of writing, not to mention some good mottos to live by.

During the mornings everyday, you'll find older people demonstrating the more traditional singing, music and dancing. Following on their heels are the fur clad horsemen, ready to give you a ride (or sit) on their mountain ponies.

More formal music Naxi music is found in the evenings. The emcee proudly introduces the 8 or so members of the band who are over 80; the oldest being 92. I expect every audience wonders which of the many will fall asleep during a performance or perhaps not make it through. Or perhaps the dissonance (to the western ear) is good for the heart and soul!

When the formal music reaches an uncomfortable pitch, the visitor need only wander to the restaurants to find a new level of singing. Bars and restaurants line either side of a cobblestoned canal area. With windows flung open no matter the temperature, guests drape themselves out of the 2nd floor windows and engage in singing (shouting??) competitions to similarly situated patrons across the canal. Led on by costumed women and conducting tourists,, the patrons, tourists, and passing travelers seem to be enjoying themselves - at least those who understand Mandarin.

A trip to Lijiang isn't complete with a trip through Black Dragon Pool Park with its vistas of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain. Visit the temple, hang a lock on the fence, explore the Dongba Research Institute Museum and take the obligatory photos.

Here's the family from last year.

... and when the bars, restaurants and music become just a bit too much, there's always the shopping.

Lijiang details: Last year's stay was the Moon Inn - the most expensive room is wonderful with magnificent views of the old town. Some of the smaller singles/twins are not so great.

This year's stay was at the Swiss Snow Inn. With quite low temperatures (I put on every layer I owned), the well-tended fireplace and bar were a great plus.

Corrupt wives put in the picture

2007-04-27T09:19:00.000+08:00

There is a Chinese belief that "a successful man must have an understanding wife". This just might mean that "a corrupt man must have a supportive wife". Beijing government authorities have now taken, according to the Shanghai Daily, to investigating and prosecuting the wives of corrupt village officials. Not only that, these "understanding wives" are portrayed in an exhibition of photos highlighting the government's effort to fight graft.

Communication, propaganda and examples are always good ways to bring about cultural change. I wonder when the government will find positive and motivational ways to encourage change?

Tanning and Diving in Krabi

2007-04-03T14:34:00.000+08:00

Krabi, Thailand

Douglas tells me that hardly anyone else feels compelled to board a plane at each and every possible holiday. Fortunately, or unfortunately for him, I can't imagine spending a week hanging around our house in Shanghai if we have the opportunity to travel. Thus, spring break saw us heading out once again. This time with a mission - Douglas's open water scuba certification.

I would have loved to get back to Koh Phi-Phi (last visit was in 1989), but with flights from Shanghai, chaos at the new Bangkok airport, and the thought of the extra travel between Krabi airport, Krabi dock and Koh Phi-Phi, I settled on Krabi. While there are a number of dive shops in Krabi, there seem to be only 2 integrated into hotels. From experience watching others studying the PADI guide book, being at an integrated site seemed to make the most sense. That was for us Ao Nang Divers at Krabi Seaview Resort.

I was well informed that there might once have been a seaview, but it was no longer. And that the place was clean and well-maintained. All true. The internet price at 4300 Baht for a bungalow for 3, inclusive of breakfast, even seemed tolerable. In hindsight, all I can say is that I have gotten seriously out of sync with hotel prices. While clean and maintained, the bathroom was not a US$125 bathroom, and the American breakfast was not a US$125 breakfast. My conclusion was that it was a very nice little place, well-run, the staff was pleasant, having the dive shop and pool was convenient, but do hotel rooms really cost this much?

The offset to the hotel rooms were the very cheap massages - at 200 Baht (US$6) / hour for a Thai or oil massage, you could hardly go wrong. Food was cheap to reasonably priced; though it was necessary to search for good Thai food.

Douglas passed his open water diving certification program. Yeah! He found the staff and crew at Ao Nang Divers to be great. The boat they use is the biggest in the area and is frequently used when the other dive shops have small groups to add onto the trips. With the dive spots being a hike from Krabi, the big boat was a nice feature. Douglas is now plotting to see how to get us to the Maldives for diving (I'm thinking about someplace cheap like Manado).

His first day of dives, he was accompanied by a camera man who entertained him on the book editing the movie. If I can tackle the challenges of video uploading, I'll attach a few clips from the rather expensive DVD of the 2 dives.

While the others studied and dove, I wandered around the beach - it was HOT! Found the best cappucino shop in town - a little booth called Kinaree. And flew through the 5th Harry Potter book in anticipation of the next installment this summer.

We had heard horror stories of the new Bangkok airport. Chaos has ensued as they shut down runways due to safety concerns, moved domestic flights back to the old airport, and reshuffled all of the flight schedules. It meant a much longer layover for us both directions. The airport could be and should be a new modern global hub. On the surface, perhaps, it meets the challenge. Look a bit deeper at the level of construction, the poor maintenance, confusing signboarding, and general service levels, and you quickly find that any dreams of being a global hub have rapidly vanished. And for this, you must now pay the departure tax which has been increased to 700 Baht (US$21).

The upshot of this year's spring break - Douglas is a certified scuba diver, Tim turned off his Blackberry for a few days and I'm tanned. Quite a bit better than last year when Douglas and I stayed at home nursing his broken leg!